We're recently back from a great vacation in South Africa. I thought I'd blog about it because it might help others planning similar trips to ours. In brief, on our 2-week vacation we started in Cape Town, travelled along the Garden Route, and ended up on safari in Shamwari. Here's some more detail and comments. I've put some photographs on Facebook,
here.
We flew with British Airways. They always do a great job. I wish there was a little more space in economy class, or that they didn't manage to sell out every flight I take, but you're in safe hands. We flew overnight and landed about 9am. We picked up a hire car and went straight to our hotel in Camps Bay, the
Crystal. We had an apartment there, overlooking Camps Bay town and the beach, and also looking to Lion's Head to the right. We couldn't check in immediately, so decided that because the weather was good -- and it doesn't always stay like that in CT -- we would go up Table Mountain. Therefore, within a couple of hours of landing, we were in the queue for the cable car.
It was worth going straight there despite being tired. The views were stunning and it helped us to orient ourselves with CT and the peninsula. There were also selections of fascinating birds and flowers, and of course hot sun. We were really pleased we'd taken our binoculars to South Africa because it gave us a chance to look along the length of the peninsula, but also to start birdwatching on the top of the mountain! It is quite flat on top, with some precipitous slopes. There's a cafe and shop but we didn't bother, being in South Africa for 2 weeks. Regarding queuing, some people tell you to buy a ticket online to avoid the queue, but in our experience -- and that of others we spoke to -- the main queue is not for tickets but subsequently for the cable car. So don't worry about buying tickets in advance because it won't save much if any time. Also, don't be put off by the cable car queue -- it moves pretty quickly.
We spent the next few days in Cape Town. Some of the things we did:
- Attended the Christadelphian meeting in Cape Town, where I spoke. We enjoyed the same warm welcome that I received when I was there in December and it was great to be back
- Ate at the City Grill on Waterfront. We had a great meal -- steak, lamb, springbok -- sitting outside in the sun with a lovely view over the port to Table Mountain
- Saw the penguins at Boulders Beach. They were wonderful! We also saw white-fronted cormorants and oyks (black oystercatchers)
- Ate at the Brass Bell, Kalk Bay. It's where Judith had her first good-tasting Hake. Normally hake in UK is dry and rubbery but several times in South Africa we had excellent hake, as good as cod
- Drove along the Chapman's Peak Drive. R31 but well worth it for the views
- Went to the Cape of Good Hope through the reserve there. Forget Cape Point -- that's just a tourist attraction. The important point is off to the right on the way to Cape Point. There's a signboard there but little else apart from cormorants, but such a romantic place. To think that generations of sailors (including my grandfather) sailed round it after long and difficult voyages, and we just flew and drove there. I felt it was a very special opportunity that I didn't want to miss. Also in the reserve we saw our first baboons in South Africa and also ostriches and ibises
- Visited Stellenbosch and ate at the 1802 restaurant. It's behind the d'Ouwe Werf hotel and we would never have gone except it was recommended to us and I'd booked it for a meal with 2 of my technical staff based in Cape Town. We had another excellent meal there. I had bobotie for the first time, along with chicken pie and kudu steak in a 3-part platter of South African dishes. Stellenbosch itself is gorgeous, and we wished we'd been able to spend more time there
- Visited Kirstenbosch gardens. Totally stunning, we spend most of the day there and ate in the very good cafe in the grounds. As well as the wonderful range of trees and plants, we also again enjoyed seeing a wide range of birds. A temporary exhibition, Untamed, was also excellent, but after being there for 2 years is due to be dismantled soon
- Went up Signal Hill in the evening when it was a full moon. Seeing the moon hanging over CT was beautiful, enhanced by the winds just starting to create the famous "tablecloth" on Table Mountain while we watched. The road up was totally full of parked cars but they were from people climbing the Lion's Head so at the end it was quiet
- Visited Groot Constantia vineyard. What an experience! Beautiful gardens, perfectly restored old Dutch buildings (R10 to go in!), an excellent introduction to winemaking from the cellar tour, and wine-tasting for beginners without a trace of condescension. We bought some wine there, and some more in duty free on the way home. Anna's favourite wine is now their Blanc de Noir, and I have to say it's pretty good. We ate in their restaurant; you can sit outside overlooking the sea, inside, or in a courtyard, so we sat outside enjoying the sun once more
- Overall, there's just so much to do in the CT area that 6 nights wasn't enough -- we didn't even explore the centre -- but we had to move on so Friday morning saw us leaving CT for Hermanus.
We had one night in
les Baleines hotel. Nice enough, if you like the highly decorated style. Our room was very comfortable but the patio door opened onto the shared terrace and we didn't really trust the the one-way plastic stuck to it! Hermanus is focused on whale-watching and surfing. Since the whales depart in December there wasn't really much point in being there, but it seems the travel agents send you there as the first stop on the Garden Route drive. We enjoyed a very good meal in the
Burgundy restaurant, where I had the best seafood pasta ever while Judith had more excellent Hake as part of a mixed seafood dish. Anna's mussels were good but it seems they didn't all agree with her.
After a night there we were off to Montagu, in the Karoo and on the
R62. This isn't normal when you drive the garden route, but we wanted to see the Karoo. On the way we stopped at
Vergelegen, primarily to see the gardens which were amazing. Perfectly maintained and containing 300-year-old trees, we also enjoyed the Dutch-style buildings there too. And the cafe. And the wine-tasting. The wine wasn't quite to our liking there compared to Constantia, yet the clarity of taste was exceptional. This was where I think we finally recognised that most wine we get in UK supermarkets is junk!
Montagu is a beautiful town in the mountains of the Karoo. Full of old houses and quirky buildings, we really enjoyed our short time there. Our
Mimosa Lodge hotel was great -- old, creaky, full of character. Our room on the front opened onto the balcony where we were able to listen to the bells of the church at the end of the road on the Sunday morning, and see what seemed like most of the town attending the services. Our Saturday night meal was at the
Olive House, a wonderful restaurant, B&B and art gallery run by a Croatian lady. Along with Mimosa Lodge, it's a must if you're in Montagu! And one more thing that's a must: the bird sanctuary in town: full of Sacred Ibis and Egrets, we were also delighted to see 2 types of kingfisher and some weaver birds.
The scenery travelling to and from Montagu was stunning. Wide open spaces with tall mountains beyond, we felt very much at home in these areas and were in some ways sorry to return to the more normal Garden Route itinerary of the coast road.
We headed to Wilderness, another standard stop on the Garden Route -- and actually it seems its official start. What is the garden route? It seems to me that it's a stretch of coast which is green and lush, forested and with many nature reserves. There's no gardens as such. But I guess when so much of South Africa is fynbos -- basically scrub -- an area of forest and green fields is worth celebrating.
In Wilderness we stayed at a very luxurious private hotel, the
Cinnamon Boutique. A huge room and beautiful furnishings throughout meant it was a special overnight stop. But Wilderness itself is nothing much, just a small village on the N2 behind a filling station. In fact, the restaurant we ate in,
the Girls, is attached to the right of the forecourt. It was ok but not the best, although Judith and Anna both really enjoyed their salads. There I enjoyed watching the final of the Africa Cup of Nations, with first extra time and then 9 pairs of penalties not ending until after midnight, with the sound turned down so Judith and Anna could sleep. It was good to see Zambia win for all the significant and meaningful reasons, but I couldn't help but rue the refereeing decisions that saw Zambia go through ahead of Ghana in the semi-final.
We then moved on to Plettenberg Bay, staying at
Laird's Lodge just outside. We stayed there for 2 nights and it was nice to be able to unpack properly and sort out our clothes. This hotel tried so hard to be posh. The staff were excellent, the food good, the grounds beautiful. But the room was painted dark green with matching curtains, a low lintel cut the room in two (painted the same colour), while some mass-produced artwork on the end wall was again exactly the same colour with drips of black and white paint on it. Coupled with the wardrobe being too small (in a huge room!), there being no TV or newspapers, no room service, no choice of food other than normal or vegetarian, it did feel like being in a PoW camp -- there was even an electric fence around the grounds! One of the many useless pieces of furniture in our room was a bamboo ladder, and I did wonder whether we were being encouraged to make a break for it, or whether we would have to hide in the laundry van. Fortunately, our key opened the electric gate.
While there, we visited several local attractions and locations:
- Knysna Elephant Sanctuary, where we fed, walked with and touched elephants. Judith especially enjoyed this
- Garden of Eden, where we followed a boardwalk around an area of unspoilt local forest
- Birds of Eden, where we again followed a boardwalk in a huge netted-over valley where both indigenous and other birds (and animals) were easily spotted and much enjoyed. It was here that a parrot sat on Anna and tried to peck off her Superdry logo!
- A viewpoint in Plettenberg, with views over one of the bays. A beautiful location, Plettenberg Bay town centre is nothing special but the location is stunning.
After 2 nights there, we moved on to Port Elizabeth. We were again following the N2, which runs from CT to Port Elizabeth (and beyond?). PE is very much a working port city, with its centre massacred by elevated roadways criss-crossing it. It doesn't seem to have many hotels, and we were booked into the
Beach Hotel overlooking the pier and beach in the south part of the city. Very much a building of faded glory (built in the 20s and subsequently extended), our room was nothing special but did have a view directly over the bay and the original dining room retained beautiful roof trusses and decoration in arts-and-crafts style. I learned that Judith's grandparents visited PE in the 20s, and we wondered whether they would have stayed in our hotel, it being the right age and level of grandeur. Judith's finding out. We ate and the hotel's Ginger Restaurant which was very good.
Staying in PE again seemed like a superfluous stop, but it did give us time to visit
Storms River Mouth on the way. In another reserve, we were surprised at the cost to enter but once there we realised it was worth it. Great views, 3 suspension brildges over lots of waves and spray, lots of Dassies and birds... and lodges. We're very tempted for next time :).
And then onto our final stop:
Rippon's Lodge in the Shamwari reserve. This was down 20+km of dirt track and driving along this was the first time we were pleased that our "VW Polo or equivalent" Renault Sandero had slack suspension and high-profile tyres. It finally made some sense. There are many levels of safari, and it's probably fair to say that Rippon's Lodge is not at the cost-no-object end. But it's very good, with excellent staff, plenty of adequate food and access to the same guides as other lodges in the Shamwari. We were very lucky to have Nofias Mpala (
linkedin) who was absolutely excellent -- patient with huge knowledge and quiet approach. If you go to Shamwari I recommend you ask for him.
So what did we see on our 4 3-hour drives over the 2 days we were there? Naturally a lot of antelope (impala, springbok, wildebeest, etc, etc) and birds (3 types of buzzard, a bustard, a secretarybird, etc), but also elephant, hippo, tortoise, white rhino, black rhino, giraffe, and finally lion! A real male, walking close to our Landcruiser truck. And the scenery was amazing too; just being out in it was wonderful even if we'd seen no animals. But a warning: it gets very cold in the Shamwari because it's high (about 1000m) and you're driving along in open trucks. So if you go, take lots of warm clothes and don't be shy to wear them :).
Our last day saw us fly from PE to Joburg and then from Joburg overnight to Heathrow. Arriving to 2degC was a shock, but fortunately we got home without incident and fell into bed.
We've had a wonderful holiday, one of our best. So much was excellent and almost everything was very good. It felt like we'd been away for months, not 2 weeks. I can definitely recommend the approach, but here's a couple of tips:
- Crystal Hotel is a good base for CT, being out of the city. It's good value too
- don't bother with Hermanus if it's not whale-watching time
- it's worth staying in Stellenbosch
- take a couple of days in Montagu, or stay in another town on the R62. Take time to enjoy the Karoo and follow the R62. Of course you must stay in the Mimosa Lodge and eat at Olive House!
- don't bother with Wilderness
- you could spend more time in the Plettenberg Bay area
- don't go to Port Elizabeth unless it means something to you. It's not a holiday destination
- Rippon's Lodge is a great place for a Shamwari safari
- PE airport is very small. You don't need to be there hours in advance for an internal flight.
Overall, a great introduction to South Africa! Next time, we need to see more :).